Megan and Kimbers wind their way through North Wales
Friends Megan and Kimbers travelled by train from London and Bristol to meet up for a four day Byway in North Wales to celebrate Megan’s 40th birthday. They explored a medieval castle, took a coastal boat trip and scarfed delicious seafood chowder. To top it off, there were plenty of Welsh ales for birthday toasts overlooking Snowdonia’s gorgeous peaks.
4 days
2 adults, 1 room
Starting in London
The Trip
Bright and early on a Sunday morning, I arrived to London Euston and hopped on a train for Bangor. Kimbers was coming from Bristol, and we were to meet in Caernarfon. The misty morning Midlands countryside gave way to rolling green hills, and, after a couple of changes, I was on board the North Welsh Coast Line, chugging along next to the amazingly sunny Irish Sea.
My train journey ended in Bangor, and with Kimbers a few hours behind me, I took advantage of the sunshine and strolled up to Garth Pier. It’s a Grade II listed Victorian pier and one of the longest in Britain. I got an iced coffee and a lemon drizzle cake from the friendly people at the Trac5 kiosk on the pier and lingered over the sea views.
Caernarfon
Next, it was onward to Caernarfon – a short 35-minute bus ride with the peaks of Snowdonia ever-present out the windows. Kimbers and I met up at our hotel: the medieval Black Boy Inn, a pub-inn with winding stairs and big, old beams. We splashed out on a fantastic dinner at The Courthouse, an upmarket restaurant located in Caernarfon’s former courthouse building. The local scallops paired with prosecco were a divine way to celebrate my birthday.
On Monday morning, we lingered over a big Welsh breakfast at the hotel and then headed to Caernarfon Castle to explore. This is one of four fortified complexes that make up a UNESCO World Heritage Site in North Wales. We especially loved learning about the history of King Edward I and snapping pictures over the rooftops of Caernarfon.
In the afternoon, we took a 45-minute, open-air boat trip down the coast with Menai Cruises. The sun was still shining and it was such a relaxing way to learn more about Wales with views over the water toward Snowdonia. In the evening, ales in hand, we watched the pinkest sunset at an outdoor table at the Anglesey Arms, right on the waterside.
Caernafon > Bleanau Ffestiniog
Tuesday was a great adventure in the transport of North Wales. First, we took a short bus south to Porthmadog – another ride with epic mountain and coast views out each side. We stopped for lunch in bustling Porthmadog, regretful that the heritage train had been all booked out, and instead admired the boats bobbing peacefully in the harbour.
Due to a traffic incident, our bus was running late and we got to know a few of the friendly locals while waiting. The sun continued to blaze – I never expected to get a tan in Wales on my 40th birthday. Finally, we were on board our last bus, which wound straight into the heart of Snowdonia, to Blaenau Ffestiniog, just south of Betws-y-Coed.
Bleanau Ffestiniog
Arriving in Blaenau, it is impossible to miss the the town’s strong heritage as a slate mine. There is slate everywhere, spilling down the hillsides and adorning every wall and rooftop; everything seems to be made of slate, and there is evidence of historical mining activity on many of the hills. Amazingly, just a few days after our visit, Blaenau Ffestiniog was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status, so it is a great time to visit.
In Blaenau, we stayed at the newly refurbished Plas Weunydd boutique hotel, and spent the evening supping Purple Moose ales (brewed in Porthmadog) from the hotel bar, with views down the valley.
Our final day offered the transport highlight: the Conwy Valley Line train from Blaenau north to Llandudno Junction. This rambling rail line passes through vast Snowdonia scenery, with peaks, green glens and sparkling rivers out of every window. I have to say, it’s one of the prettiest trains I’ve ever taken in Britain. I only wish we had given ourselves more time, as I would have loved to spend the day hopping on and off, exploring the stops and villages along the way, or maybe setting off on a hike.
Top recommendations
We loved the seafood chowder at the Black Boy Inn. Perfect seaside dinner!
The Menai Cruises boat trip is a must. It’s a family-run operation and fills up, so make sure you book in advance!
Bonta Deli in Caernarfon does good takeaway coffees and has a nice selection of local goodies, picnic items and Welsh craft beers to take away.
Sit on the right-hand side of the train for your journey from Crewe/Chester to Bangor for the best views of the sea.
This is an off-the-beaten-path journey with plenty of on-and-off transport. We were glad we took backpacks rather than rollable luggage.
Sundays and Mondays in North Wales can be a little quiet, as some restaurants and shops are closed.
This was such a fun and unexpected trip. Most visitors don’t use public transport in North Wales, so that made this a special adventure and encouraged us to try places we might not have visited otherwise. Plus, we loved having the Byway team on Whatsapp for help, or just to chat and share pictures!