Spotlight on: seven off-season wonders
It's true that all good things come to an end – even summer. But I’ll admit, as peak season kicks into gear at its usual break-neck speed, I can’t help quietly pine for the hazy end-of-summer period.
I feel a bit bad for it, but there’s something about those final weeks of warm weather that bring a welcome change of speed to my previously packed schedule; where fresh-fruit breakfasts slip seamlessly into languid afternoons, and with the evening sun, an open fire that stretches out into the early hours. September going on October. A good book, and nowhere else to be. The sea is warm from the summer just gone and a crisp glass of rosé is still an acceptable lunchtime beverage (right?). But with the season turning, crowds dissipate, midday gets milder, and prices feel a little easier on the wallet.
Maybe it’s my inner romantic (or because I’m a Cancer), but I’ll take late summer over peak season any day. So here’s my ode to shoulder season: 7 off-season wonders for wistful wayfarers (or simply those who left booking their summer holiday a bit late–I see you).
1) Sicily through the Aeolian Islands
For weather that’s pleasant enough for hiking the treacherous trails of the North Coast, try October; you’ll be rewarded with views across coastal vistas, cactus-strewn hills and real life volcanoes. And the best way to get there? Chasing the sunset across the Aeolian Islands as you sail overnight from Naples. You’ll dock into Milazzo’s port in time for a breakfast of grapefruit granita. Yes, it’s a thing. [See trip]
2) The Dalmatian Coast
Chanel some serious main-character energy as you explore one of the most filmed locations in Europe. By the end of summer, the crowds clear and you’ll be free to hop across islands, hike Jurassic mountains and wander the UNESCO crumbling old towns of the Dalmatian Coast. Game of Thrones fans: prepare for serious Déjà vu with two nights in Kings Landing – I mean Dubrovnik. [See trip]
3) Sleeper train to Lake Bled
Against the green backdrop of the Julian Alps, cool down from summer on the banks of Lake Bled. With morning dips and afternoons whiled away under the shade of horse chestnut trees, Bled is all about life’s simple pleasures; a lakeside picnic feels more lavish than any Michelin-star restaurant ever could. [See trip]
4) North Norfolk Coast
Ditch the passport, and embrace the drawn-out British summertime against Norfolk’s big skies and mile-long sandy beaches. Sure, it’s not the med, but Norfolk never disappoints. The sandy sandwiches. Crabbing. Cromer’s Victorian Pier (with a fully operational theatre). And because it’s England, a 99 from the ice cream van is still firmly on the agenda, even in October. [See trip]
5) Tuscan sunsets
Picture this: prime window seat, sweeping through the Tuscan countryside by train, accompanied by a worn copy of your favourite coming-of-age romance novel. Arriving in Florence, you’ll marvel at Michelangelo’s ‘Gates of Paradise’ without the crowds, and cool off with late-night gelato in Sienna’s Piazza del Campo. La Dolce Vita. [See trip]
6) Alsatian Vineyards
Late summer means grape-harvesting season on the banks of the Rhine. Along the Burgundy Wine trail, you’ll observe age-old traditions of wine harvesting in the vineyards that stretch out from Dijon. With a more temperate climate, pack a picnic and whisk through vineyards by bike, and wind down balmy evenings in quaint neighbourhood bistros. [See trip]
7) Cornish Coast
A British summertime classic. But it’s also an off-season delight. Wait till September and the sea is at its warmest, or October for a more invigorating dip. You’ll actually be able to get a space at that raved-about seafood restaurant, and it’ll taste all the better knowing you’re supporting local business outside peak season. [See trip]
