Summer holidays on the Mediterranean by train

“For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” - Robert Louis Stevenson, Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes (1878)

It’s the moving that we all miss. And to rekindle that affair post-COVID, there are few better places than the Mediterranean. The Mediterranean oozes slow, with sultry scenes of apertifs in Marseille’s vieux port or a paddle and pique-nique on Nice’s Castel beach filling our dreams. Such reverie will, hopefully, become a reality by summer 2021 but, as we sit patiently and wait, there’s no harm in planning.

Best places to visit by train on and near the Mediterranean 

Avignon

The direct summer Eurostar train from London to the Med goes via Avignon, the next stop after Lyon as the train follows the natural artery of the Rhône. As well as a glorious location on the river, with its famous bridge, the UNESCO ancient city centre and fine Provençal produce, its lauded Avignon Arts Festival is spectacular. Still planned for 2021, this one will be extra celebratory as it celebrates 75 years of the arts, Avignon style, in the great courtyard of the Palais de Papes. Another summer treat for adventure seekers in Avignon is wild swimming or kayaking under the historic Pont-du-Gard aqueduct on the Gardon river. The wonderful direct train was a casualty of Covid in 2020 but we’re hoping it will be reinstated this year.

Image: Flickr/David Brossard

Aix-en-Provence

Summer in Aix-en-Provence is nigh on paradise, when this elegant city’s leafy boulevards, mansion-lined squares, parks and gardens come into full bloom. Explore the classical French garden of Parc Jourdan, one of the biggest parks in Aix, split into two parts by an enormous staircase, or stroll around the grounds of 17th-century Pavillon Vendôme. At present, the annual Aix-en-Provence Opera Festival is still planned for July 2021, with bookings open early February 2021. This one will lift the roof off, after a year’s absence. If it had a roof - most of it is in the outdoor Théâtre de l'Archevêché. And, as well all know, outdoors is now very much in. 

Marseille

A former European Capital of Culture in 2013, Marseille is far from ‘former’ in its vibe. The Vieux Port is traditionally the hub of the city’s cultural heritage and the architectural gem, Musée des Civilisations de l’Europe, has captured and curated its history in an astounding and award-winning way. Mellow out in this Mediterranean city, sauntering alongside boats, bars and brasseries. The Blue Coast (Côte Bleue) train to Miramas is a superb day trip from Marseille, clinging to the coast and passing through idyllic fishing villages or over ancient viaducts. As you need to buy tickets for this train locally, it’s not so well known internationally. Another hidden gem is the 62km Côte Bleue hiking trail between Marseille and Martigues.

Nice

As early as the 1700s, Nice was enticing visitors to its sophisticated shores thanks to a Mediterranean climate and sandy beaches. It’s chic, charming and always just a little bit sassy. Walk in the footsteps of France’s Belle Epoque aristocrats down the Promenade des Anglais, saunter around the belles boutiques of the old town, swim and sizzle under the omnipresent summer sun, or just people watch at one of many outdoor restaurants and bars. For real Nice, the city has created a network of local guides to show you all their favourite haunts, on foot or on the Nice’s Vélo Bleu bike scheme, including the wine region of Bellet and the Roman ruins at Cimiez.  

Check out Nice’s historic Jazz Festival, dating back to 1948 when none other than Louis Armstrong was the headline act. It is still planned to run in July 2021, with tickets now on sale. 

Toulon 

Bang in between Marseille and Nice, Toulon is surprisingly un-touristy even though it’s on the Côte d’Azur, perhaps because it still has a bit of a port over poser vibe. It is still a stylish French city, however, with beaux arts, beaches and a bevy of waterfront brasseries. The Hôtel des Arts is its most celebrated contemporary gallery and the historic Old Town (Basse Ville), somewhat neglected for years, is seeing a strident regeneration with artisans and cool cafes, fashion and a lot of fountains. Le Mourillon is Toulon’s urban beach, and for top views across the metropolis and the Med, take the cable car up to Mont Faron. You can also catch the ferry to Corsica at Toulon’s port, an island which should have slow as its middle name. 

Île de Porquerolles

Take the 1 hr 15 mins ferry from Toulon to Île de Porquerolles, the largest of the Golden Isles archipelago, on the southernmost tip of the Côte d’Azur. Where, you might ask? Indeed, it is surprisingly unknown to many international visitors, but when you see its remote landscapes, turquoise waters and sandy beaches you’ll wonder ‘why didn’t I come here before now?’. You’ll quickly swap the where and why for wow. It’s so ‘wow’ in fact, that we recommend three of a 14 night Mediterranean itinerary exploring its car-free but nature-rich land and seascapes. Top of the list are the tracks and trails through the Parc National de Port-Cros that protects most of the island, the history of the Fournier family who bought the island in 1912 but then gave it to the state in 1971 to preserve it, and the ever-alluring azurean vistas.  

Ventimiglia, Italy

Just over 40 minutes by train over the border from Nice, this Ligurian town on the Italian Riviera is a revelation to many who are more au fait with the busier spots on the Med. It is divided by the Roia River into old and new, the former called Ventimiglia Alta. This isn’t because this part of the town is old, but because it is high up, poised majestically on a hill with views over the Mediterranean. Beach time is blessed at both Spiaggia dei Balzi Rossi and Spiaggia delle Calandre, and if shopping is more your thing, don’t miss the open air market on the lungomare, or boardwalk, every Friday, with local produce, artisan goods, wine and plenty of local flowers. Flowers are a big thing in Ventimiglia in summer, with the Battaglia di Fiori, or Battle of the Flowers, a two day event every June.